But some of us have: Near the arch sits this 2003 statue of James Joyce by Croatian sculptor Mate ÄŒvrljak. The wily writer lived here briefly in 1904/5 at the home port of the Austro-Hungarian battleships awaiting that war to end all wars. He made his living at the local Berlitz School, teaching English to naval officers for about $3.25 per week. Apparently he spent his off time (he only worked 16 hours a week) in a nearby outdoor cafe, soaking up the Dalmatian sun. On our visit, though, his statue glistened with the October rain. Joyce doesn't mention Pula in his work (he wrote much of "Portrait of an Artist as a Young Man" here); but an earlier visitor, Dante, talks about it in the Divine Comedy, (back in the days when God had a sense of humor.)Too highbrow? Try this: Georg Ludwig von Trapp was stationed here before his "Sound of Music" days. His father and other Trapps are buried here (but the hills are still alive). His sister was a painter and lived here as well.
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