Zagreb, Croatia -- Zagreb is Croatia's capital -- and a place that Marshall Tito said had known war over the last 50 generations. A town of Gothic and modern, of scaffolds and graffiti, it's been making itself over for pretty much the past 150 years. Tourists mostly visit four areas of Zagreb which spread out like a grotesque smiling face climbing a hill. The newest area is the green smile at bottom which teems with monumental museums, parks, and cultural attractions. It's a great example of planned urban growth and is often called the "Green Horseshoe." The rectangular nose is the town's main square -- Ban Jelačić Square. The two eyes contain the now-pedestrianized medieval towns which belonged, respectively, to the crown (left) and the bishop (right).

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