Zagreb, Croatia -- ...this miraculous icon. A 1731 fire destroyed most of this area but not (you guessed it) this painting which was found in the ashes of the apartment just over this gate. Candles have been burning ever since. The original frame was burnt and this ornate frame is thought to be from a 16th or 17th century Zagreb artisan. In 1778, the city placed what is considered the best example of Croatian baroque smithwork in front of it -- as a protective fence. The crowns date from 1931 when they were added to celebrate 200 centuries of this icon keeping Zagreb safe. (We won't talk about that 1880 earthquake, of course.)

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