Zagreb, Croatia -- The funicular descends briefly but steeply to Zagreb's main square which has had several names but today carries that of Count Josip Jelačić whose reputation has gone from hero to villain and then back to hero. (Or maybe not. Hungarians will have a different view of him since he opposed their 1848 revolution to overthrow Habsburg rule.) Often in this part of the world, a hero in one country is considered to be a scoundrel by its neighbors.

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