Jus north of London Wall Street (so named after German bombs excavated the walls) and to the east of Aldergate Street (named after the northern gate through those walls) rises the forty-acre Barbican Estate complex, a residential and arts development built after World War II. Named after a defensive fortification in the area (long destroyed), Barbican Estate was built in the Brutal Architectural Style popular in Britain (but not with Prince Charles) after the war to quickly and inexpensively throw up housing using raw (brut in French) concrete exteriors.
The City of London's population had fallen in half (from 10,000) in the century before the war. This particular area, called Cripplegate1, had only about 50 residents and was the center of the "rag" (clothing) trade. The city grabbed its chance for urban renewal to provide housing to the many financial district employees, creating over 2014 flats (with a 100 different layouts and kitchens derived from ship galleys.). These hover over parking garages and connect to each other by wide bridge walkways. Softened by lakes and green spaces, the Barbican Complex has provided quiet housing on the edge of the largest financial district in Europe since 1969. Over 40% of the City of London's population lives here making this the Square Mile's dorm. (But most of the million people who have jobs in the City live outside the square-mile area).
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Walking along the complex, one feels that he has left London due to the lakes and green space. In fact, the multi-leveled pedestrian areas are twice the size of the footprint of land the German bombs leveled. The architects intended to produce the feel of a small walled town. Parts of the seems reminiscent of the moats and other defenses which protected the ancient wall over which this complex was built. Just add water to the area below:
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Besides housing, the Barbican Complex contains the largest multi-use performing art center in Europe built mostly underground. Colin Davis and the London Symphony call this home. This place literally (and musically) works on many levels.
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The complex expectedly contains shopping, schools, and other amenities required by a residential community. Also deep below the surface lie three miles of tunnels for utilities as well as three subway lines. At left we see one of the four lakes that give this area a protected and placid feel right in the heart of the city. At center is the church of St. Giles- without-Cripplegate discussed earlier. To its near left is a typical mid-rise apartment building (there are also three 43-story apartment towers in the complex). At far left the London School for Girls.
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This seems like a pleasant place to live if you work in the financial district. However, it may be a little Singaporean. Above are some of the banned activities in the pedestrian areas adjacent to the residences. Bad news for those who like to play musical instruments while riding motorcycles up trees.
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The Museum of London sits at the Southwest corner of the Barbican Estate. Its on the site of old Nettleton Court (a fancy name for a humble alley) where amazing grace caused the 35-year-old John Wesley to be born again in a Anglican/Moravian meeting house, now long gone apparently without a trace. The date was May 24, 1738, still celebrated by Methodists on Aldersgate Sunday and Wesley Day). A 1981 bronze plaque (the Aldersgate Flame Memorial at right) on the upper ramp to the museum marks the spot where the conversion took place (at street level). The memorial bronzes the entry from Wesley's journal describing his Aldersgate conversion. "My heart was strangely warm'd." |
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Just across from where the London Wall opened at Aldersgate (torn down in 1761) rests the third St. Botolph's church (of the four originally in the City of London). Wesley's father (and father to 18 other Wesleys including Charles) had briefly served here as rector before being "expelled" for non-conformity. Wesley's maternal grandfather had been rector of St. Giles-without-Cripplegate seen above.
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St Botolph's-without-Aldersgate describes itself as a "mid-week" church since that's when you'll find people in this part of the financial district. While this site has held churches for a millennium, the present structure dates from 1788-91.
St. Botolph's church grounds combine with a few other yards for long-disappeared churches to form Postman's Park. (Note the orphaned tombstones at left.) The Victorian painter and rabid socialist George Watts wanted a park dedicated to everyday people who became heroic by trying to save others and named this one for the mailmen who sorted letters when a large post office stood just to the south of this area.
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In the above picture of Postman's park, notice the green-tile-roofed gallery in the right background. This houses the Watts memorial: Doulton ceramic plaques listing the names and circumstances of those who gave their lives trying to save others:
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For a 360-degree view of the park, click here.
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