The Canal Family Summer Home
San Miguel's most prominent family, the de la Canals, started
building a summer estate in the southwest corner of town in
1735 complete with reservoir. Soon after, their most
famous daughter, Josefa, was born here. Sixteen
years later she would start a convent in town, down the
street from their winter palace.
With the great
sense of timing that often characterizes the transactions of
the rich, the Canals sold the estate to another order of nuns
who wanted to establish a base in San Miguel. The year
was 1809 and shortly thereafter the mob descended upon San
Miguel to kick off the War of Independence.
The buyers were the Discalced Carmelite Sisters,
followers of St. Teresa of Ávila, who lived in
communities which pretty much kept to themselves rather than
serving the community.
Discalced refers to the practice
of going barefoot (or at least in sandals with the feet
exposed) started in the Western world by Francis of Assisi.
The nuns had great plans to expand the complex into
the Canals' pecan and citrus orchards. They hired one
of the most prominent Spanish architects of the day; however,
the revolution pretty well cratered their
plans
.[83]
In 1951 this site became the home of the Instituto Allende,
now one of the most widely known Latin American art schools.
Many also learn Spanish here -- all under the auspices
of the University of Guanajuato.
Instituto Allende's DNA stems from the Escuela
Universitaria de Bellas Artes founded in the Centro area of
San Miguel in 1938 in what is now called the
Nigromonte Center but which was, in fact, the convent
built by Josefa de la Canal who was born on this site.
At any rate, the Spanish colonial arcades (restored in
the early 1950s) create a cloister-like setting with
landscaping, fountains, a snack area, and a large mural by
David Leonardas. The shaded arches lead to galleries,
classroom, and administrative offices.
The art school was one of the main drivers for the
expat explosion. A 1948
Life magazine article informed those
contemplating studying with GI Bill benefits that this quaint
town offered rents for $10 per month (with maids for $8 per
month). Rum at 65 cents per quart was the kicker.
Over 6000 former servicemen immediately applied for
admission to a school with then about 40 students. San
Miguel at that time was all of 10,000 people.
Affordable Rum,
Romanism, and Rebellion -- a perfect place for a
budding artists on a budget! The need for larger
quarters to support this growth led to the old Canal estate.
The barefoot eventually got their place. Today
the Instituto has about 1300 students.
The Leonardas Mural
David Leonardas's 1999 mural is entitled "Ignacio Allende
and the History of Mexico." It's more representational
than the unfinished mural painted by the better known
David Alfaro Siqueiros in the nearby
Nigromonte center. We see General Allende at
center, blue coated on his white steed.
The Aztec here seems rather unafraid of the conquistador's
dagger. There were only 600 conquistadors -- but they
brought with them good weapons such as smallpox,
Bubonic plague, measles, and syphilis that wiped out half the
native population. (Viral marketing at its worst)
Above: a less colorful wall hanging.
The Instituto has rental space for parties such as the plaza
above which provides views of the centro area such as that
seen below.
