Plaza del Arenal

Next, we look at a square now modernized and at the center of Jerez activity, the Plaza del Arenal. It combines the modern with the classic (and a bit of propaganda or patriotism.) The town meeting place since the days of the Moors, the Plaza starts just outside the Alcázar.

Rising above the birds of Paradise and a busy fountain is this memorial to Jerez native-son Miguel Primo de Rivera who became dictator of Spain in the 1920s. He grew up in a town of dissolute landowners among what may have then been the poorest agricultural workers in Europe. (Garlic soup was a not uncommon peasant dinner.) He served in the Philippines and Cuba as the US stripped these possessions from Spain. However, Primo de Rivera’s conquests in the bedroom were legendary. 

In 1923, Primo de Rivera led the military in overthrowing parliament. The ultimate agent of change, he imposed martial law and tried to modernize the economy and remove the old political order. But the party animal he became growing up in Jerez flourished during his dictatorship; many of his intoxication-fueled edicts would have to be annulled the next morning. He resigned in 1930. His eldest son started the fascist Falange party that led to 4 decades of Franco’s rule, making Rivera’s 7 years of power seemed mild and progressive.

Nearly one whole long side of the plaza is anchored by this elegant building with lower logia reminiscent of the Rue de Rivoli which faces Paris’s Louvre.

This elevator reminds us that Jerez has buried its cars – or at least its parking lots. A great idea to preserve the historical ambience while accommodating progress. In a sense, it’s a fitting tribute to the dictator Miguel Primo de Rivera who seized power when few cars motored through Spain. When he resigned, it had Europe’s best roads and Barcelona had its subway. Much of this was financed by public debt to be repaid when economic expansion occurred because of the improved infrastructure. This is no Laffer matter so get your shovels ready!

Next we visit the exterior of San Miguel Church.  Please join us by clicking here.

Please join us in the following slide show to give Jerez de la Frontera the viewing it deserves by clicking here.

Jerez de la Frontera, Spain

---

Previous:  Plaza de la Asunción            Next:  San Miguel Church

TIP: Click on any picture to see it full size. PC users, push F11 to see it even larger.

TIP: See the rest of our travel pictures by clicking here.

TIP: See these pictures as a slide show by clicking here.