The Cathedrals of Cadíz, Spain

 Visited 10 October 2008
The unusual concave and convex front of the "new" cathedral (shown above) fronts one of the larger squares and faces the center of the island. Obviously the new wealth pouring into Cadíz immediately after it received the trade monopoly called for a more elaborate Baroque/neo-Classical cathedral, in this case designed by (at least at first) by Vincente Acero.

Acero's family stretched back to the invading Berbers in 711. He served as master architect of many Spanish and North American cathedrals and possibly of many of the ships in the ill-fated Spanish Armada. The towers were added in the 19th century by Juan de la Vega.

An eclectic interior

Interior Cadiz Cathedral

Since it took nearly 120 years to build, several architects served in the role of master builder -- good if you like eclecticism, bad if you prefer consistency. Either way, this is a gorgeous place of elegant symmetry floating above its triple-nave Latin cross plan: note the two gold pulpits which frame the octagonal tabernacle enclosure under its matching dome. Corinthian columns abound making the huge support for the dome look rather graceful.

TabernacleAt left:  A view from the back of the tabernacle whose double Corinthian columns suggest an ancient Greek temple


Below is a closer look at the cathedral's neo-classic dome. On the outside, it's a golden dome that seems to float in the clouds when the fog surrounds Cadíz. But inside, this cathedral (with the exception of the tabernacle) does not try to overwhelm with silver and gold as do other Andalusian cathedrals like the one in Seville. (However, Cadíz displays its wealth from the Indies in the Cathedral's museum which we shall see next.) Here the stately marble and classic forms surround the worshiper. Note the simplicity of its pendentives (those triangles that make this dome look a bit like a four-pointed star)

Dome interior

Cornejo's Choir

Funny that in this city sparkling with New World gold and silver, the wooden choir is the most decorated area of its cathedral.  Pedro Duque Cornejo carved its stalls. The "throne area" at center provides an unusual focal point we hadn't noticed before. My guess would be that this area serves as a chapter house where the bishop presided over meetings with clerics. After all, the Latin word for a chair with arm rests is "cathedral" -- and it was typically reserved for the emperor until bishops stole the idea in the 4th century. Usually the bishop's throne is found near the main altar.

choir choir choir

Given that it took 116 years to build, the Cathedral shows elements of the styles that flourished during that period: Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical. But Cornejo's choir somehow feels downright medieval.

(Note: you may need to doubleclick to enlarge the small pictures above to see this kind of detail:) The upper cherubs seem to have started an orchestra. (They probably have that kind of time.) They stand above a row of bust reliefs of female saints who are supported by some hard working cherubs with backs bent under the load. Below them stand the men with Jesus and Mary on each side of the throne emblazoned with a gold emblem of a bishop.

Side Chapels

side chapels

Half dome side chapels provide plenty of space for devotion to particular saints. During construction, these housed the workshops of the builders. The one below
displays the large collection of relics of saints in the wall displays.

relics


Still the party place long after the Roman fleet left, Cadíz today has a huge
Mardi Gras festivalfloat patterned after the Venetian festival. (Much trade occurred between Venice and Cadíz). However, this silver float by Enrique de Arfe is used during the more somber religious processions on the feast of Corpus Christi and during Holy Week. Arfe was probably of German origin but did his best work in early 16th century Spain where gold and silver poured in from the colonies. He started out Gothic but switched to Renaissance art right away. More of his work can be found in the Cathedral museum across the plaza. Processions are big in Cadíz and there are 30 associations (called "brotherhoods") who carry floats through the streets.

Furnishings

pulpit

Above is a closeup of one of the two gold leaf pulpits. Even their bottoms is elaborately decorated.


The Crypt

Crypt

Below the church, a huge crypt contains the remains of many bishops as well as that of the composer Manuel de Falla who was born in Cadíz. (We found these sultry flamenco dancers above honoring his spirit.) While most church crypts have small rooms and low ceilings resulting from the huge pillars required to support the upper weight of their churches, that was not the case here. The central area was very large with no obvious means of support for thcryptis circular room. This is even more surprising when you consider that this crypt is below sea level -- and the Atlantic is only a few yards away from this spot. How do they keep this underground area dry (and erect?) At right is a typical altar crypt area with bishops stacked in the walls.

 

Plaza Fray Félix

Plaza Fray FelixThe tiny plaza at left was once one of the most important squares in Cadíz. It's called Plaza Fray (Friar) Félix and is bordered by the Cathedral Museum (above) and the old cathedral (not shown at right.) These buildings seem to have been merged with the tower of the old cathedral which appears to have been once freestanding (and because of that perhaps the minaret for the Moorish mosque which was near this site). Below this spot, the Romans built the second largest theater to survive their empire. (If you call that survival: It was rediscovered in the 1980s and is undergoing restoration. Number one was that in Pompeii which obviously spent its centuries buried as well.)

Later 17th century expansion added the ornate stairway seen behind the little dome (which provided well access to a cistern below).


Cathedral Museum

Museum

The cathedral museum (entrance area above) occupies several of these merged structures including the old accounting house for the cathedral chapter, built right on top of the seats of the 1st century BC Roman theater. It was merged with old cathedral tower and the Santa Cruz college which housed clerics and altar boys serving the cathedral. Above is the Mudejar patio just behind the museum entrance. Most likely this medieval building survived somehow when the Brits leveled the city in 1596. Most of the city was then rebuilt in neo-Classical style. Parts of this complex are very old with 7th century BC Phoenician remains underneath the Roman's stones.

relic


Inside these ancient rooms are outstanding religious vessels attesting to the wealth that poured into Cadíz. Above we have a relic of the crown of thorns (note the toothpick in the glass cylinder) surrounded by rationally exuberant angels. Separate exhibit rooms are devoted for gold and silver works. In addition, exquisite marble carvings such as crucifixes and many oil paintings are displayed.
Repository
Elaborately carved repositories (left) were used inside the cathedral to lock up the gold altar cups and monstrances. Shown here is one of the two  on display. The inside is Dutch tile with an inlaid wood door. Thieves might consider emptying the safe -- and then carting it away.


(Picture below) And you think you should clean up your bookshelves! Here we have the choir books, so large that the entire ensemble could sing off the same page.

Several were on display: Someone would have to turn these pages pretty fast in these pre-Powerpoint days as the choir chanted from the measure-less staffs. Perhaps this inspired Mitch Miller to "follow the bouncing ball." (If you're too young to remember this, ask Mitch who, as of this writing, is still alive and conducting at age 97.)

choir bookjs

Connections

We were also enchanted by the free WiFi service available to cafe patrons linWiFiing the edges of Cathedral square, compliments of the city government.




Unfortunately we found most of Cadiz's churches closed during our visit. An exception was a chapel as small and baroque as the Cathedral was large and neo-Classical.  Please click here as we visit the Oratorio of the Sacred Cave.



Please join us in the following slide show to give Cadíz the viewing it deserves by clicking here.

Cadíz, Spain

Previous: Cadíz Overview            Next: Oratorio of the Sacred Cave



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