Córdoba Mezquita

Córdoba, Spain

 Visited 17 and 18 October 2008

Mezquita aerial viewCordoba’s Mosque and Granada’s Alhambra are the unrivalled icons of the Moorish architecture in Western Europe. Today the mosque is still a functioning worship space as it has been since at least the 5th century. In that time, it’s been the world’s second largest mosque and one of many pretty good cathedrals in Spain. Here you walk from the Islamic world to the Christian – and back without going outside.

By itself, the town of Córdoba is well worth the visit as a historical and well-preserved Andalusian town. But with this remarkable building, stopping here is de rigueur. With the possible exception of Granada’s Alhambra, this is the most significant Moorish building in Western Europe.

If you think that's a Christian cathedral poking through the roof, you're right. Without those modifications (some would say abominations), this might look like the roof of a factory. You could also make the case that if this building hadn't been converted to a cathedral after the Christian reconquista, the entire structure would have been torn down.

 The Umayyad Migration

 When built, this was Islam's 2nd largest mosque. But why in Córdoba?

Córdoba, , Spain
Here's why. The map above shows the realm of the Arab Umayyad Dynasty which evolved from a tribe of merchants who became successful administrators under Muḥammad in Mecca. When civil war broke out after the prophet's death, their descendants became caliphs. Moving the capital north to Damascus, they built the Syrian army into their power base -- but eventually they were overthrown after unsuccessful foreign wars and a financial crisis. (Aren't you glad that can't happen to us!) By 750, the Umayyads were prey to the new Abbasid regime -- whose goal was to kill every remaining member of the clan.
Córdoba, , Spain
But ʿAbd al-Raḥmān I escaped to Al-Andalus, where in 755 he convinced the warring Arab factions there to make him their emir (a rough equivalent to a prince). 

Convincing the Iberian Arabs to cede hegemony to a fleeing Umayyad may not have been difficult.  While it took the Moors only about 3 years to subdue most of Visigoth Iberia, they had much more difficulty subduing themselves. Factional disputes gave the first 22 Andalusian emirs reigns lasting an average of 2 years.

Nicknamed “the Falcon,” ʿAbd al-Raḥmān I turned out to be a remarkable ruler in the 32 years until his death. He strengthened trade, introduced grapefruit, figs, and other crops into Spain, and wandered about Córdoba (which would grow to about 100,000 population in his day) without bodyguards.

Many of the former Umayyad administrators then fled Damascus and settled in what was to soon become one of the most important cities in Europe – Cordoba. Eventually the Umayyads proclaimed their rule to be a Caliphate, which meant they viewed themselves as successors to prophet Muhammad's authority. Such pretensions required a mosque suitable to buttress these claims. By 785 ʿAbd al-Raḥmān I had built one which would be expanded by his successors 3 times. Some enhanced with style and some with only volume. By the turn of that millennium, Cordoba's Mezquita was the largest in the world save for the pilgrimage mosque in Mecca.

Architecture as destiny

Eventually the Umayyads proclaimed their rule to be a Caliphate, which meant they viewed themselves as successors to prophet Muhammad's authority. Such pretensions required a mosque suitable to buttress these claims. 

By 785 ʿAbd al-Raḥmān I had built one which would be expanded by his successors 3 times. Some enhanced with style and some with only volume. By the turn of that millennium, Cordoba's Mezquita was the largest in the world save for the pilgrimage mosque in Mecca.

Salvation through conversion

Córdoba, Spain
Most Spanish mosques are boxy, flat–roofed buildings with a minaret tower climbing high into the sky to help summon the faithful to prayer. Often Christians added the accoutrements of a bell tower atop the minaret when they repurposed the structure as we see in the above picture. (The few mosques that survived in Spain were usually converted to Christian churches.)

Exterior Walls

Mosque exterior walls are typically plain, save for a fancy doorway or two. Cordoba’s mosque walls are huge, but occasionally their austerity is interrupted by decorations from the Moors and the Christians as well. For instance, (below) we see one of the many shrines that the Christians added to the Mezquita’s walls. the popular shrine to “Our Lady of the Lanterns” with a copy of a painting by Julio Romero de Torres. The son of the director of the town's art museum, Torres was born in Cordoba and has a museum to his work here on the same square as Cordoba’s art museum which was directed by his father. He died here in 1930 but traveled far in distance and artistic style in between.

Córdoba, Spain

The west wall of the Mezquita (at right in the picture below) shows one of the Mosque's more decorated sides. At left was the bishop’s palace, now converted to a convention center.)

Córdoba, Spain

The decoration here is primarily the Moorish arches including those with 3 and 5 lobes. Multi-lobe arches are also a decorative motif in the interior.

Córdoba, Spain

The exterior walls originally had many shops whose rent paid for the upkeep of the mosque and cathedral. These were removed for aesthetic purposes and the town’s meat markets were tasked with paying for the cathedral’s upkeep. Tithes were also required, but the king took some of the revenue for his own use, starving the maintenance program. 
After the Christian conquest of Cordoba, the mosque was in danger of collapse from poor maintenance. Christians taxed Muslim artisans to donate their skilled labor to repairs. The Muslim population got so squeezed by taxes (far in excess of their surrender agreement) that they revolted in 1264 -- causing the Castilian king to treat them even worse.
Let's now enter the complex through the Gate of Pardons attached to the old minaret.  Please join us by clicking here.



Please join us in the following slide show to give Córdoba the viewing it deserves by clicking here.



  Next: Minaret


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